Grow

On a slope too steep to walk without staggering, where the wild strawberries (Fragaria Vesca) have stubbornly conquered almost half the ground and, prior to this Spring, where hundreds of Spanish Bluebells pernicious in their spread once ruled, stand six apple trees.

This bank of earth, dividing the two garden spaces is too narrow to plant four trees let alone six (seven if you count a stray sapling), their branches overlap, tangled together and this overcrowding must be one of the causes of their suffering..

Twisted and gnarled, they are all sick. Suffering from a history of poor or incomplete pruning with gaping holes that collect rainwater to rot them, limbs that scratch and rub overhead and, clogging up the cracks and crevices from late Spring to Autumn is the sticky white fluff of the Woolly Aphid. All these afflictions can be healed with some judicious pruning, greasing and washing. Unfortunately the tell-tale signs of Canker (splitting bark exposing the hard grey dead wood) I’ve seen of late ratchet up the concern somewhat. I’ve read the RHS Advice on Canker and plan to rid as much as I can this Winter although such is the spread in two of the trees that I have thought of grubbing them out.

The old men of the garden gave a great sulk this year. The crop was shamefully light — six trees and only a small basket of fruit. Last year I decided to reshape the trees to begin cutting out the canker and inward growing branches (plus all the usual twiggy pruning). I’ve since learned that a tree’s store of energy is matched to support the growth of the size of tree before pruning. If a large amount of growth is removed then the excess energy feeds the vigorous growth of whippy stems, suckers and water spouts (thin branches that usually grow straight upright) instead of fruit or spur growth.

As for the fruit, four of the six share the same variety. I searched through the list on Orange Pippin resource and narrowed it down to either the Catshead or the Calville Blanc D’Hiver. I’m plumping for the Catshead though, certainly the apples match the variety’s angular, ugly ridges and coarse texture. Originating in the 17th Century I’m pleased that they are a heritage variety despite being diseased and not especially attractive. The other two trees produce apples that are larger, have an orange blush on one side and again are not an eating variety but their identification eludes me.

Arguably the most delicious of all our native berries the desire for a productive Raspberry plot led me to dig in several bare root canes last year. Unfortunately the mistakes made with the planting depth and incorrect pruning leaving my collection of canes in an unenviable state.

The distinction between Summer and Autumn fruiting canes was clearly lost on me as I chopped several bushes down to the ground after fruiting in July only to discover that Summer canes fruit on growth from the previous year. And for no reason I can recall I opted to leave several canes, that I later discovered were Autumn fruiting unchecked.

Despite five of the plants growing on to crop (they are supposed to be one of the best low-maintenance of the fruiting plants) I was disappointed with the number of berries. Either they need to establish a good root system before fruiting handfuls of berries or the planting depth wasn’t right. That said, I have plans to lift and replant the fruiting area of my L shaped raised bed but wonder if this would disturb the roots?

Undeterred I’m going to order a few more Autumn fruiting canes (likely to be the Autumn Bliss variety), prepare supports where necessary and start again. Possibly because I’m impatient for a garden task to lose an hour to or rather it’s likely to be far more enjoyable experience than say, sorting the mess of the compost heap or the despondent clearing of the pigeon-pecked cauliflower seedlings. And this time I’m going to label them clearly.